Sean's Huancayo Adventures

Names

2009-05-21T08:54:00.000-07:00

Not many people here in Peru are familiar with the name "Sean." Every once in a while, someone who watches a lot of movies will recognize the name, and say, "oh yeah! Like Sean Connery!" But most people really struggle with it.

For fun, here are some names I've been called in Peru:

Shane
Seany
Shaolin
Sham
Cham
Chan
Chon
and of course, Shark

It doesn't bother me when people get it wrong, but I definitely will not complain when, in the US, people recognize my name and pronounce it correctly.

Nice little birthday weekend

2009-05-05T07:42:00.001-07:00

Hello everyone,

This weekend I turned 24, which to me isn't a huge deal, actually. What made things fun was that in Peru, Labor Day weekend was celebrated from Friday-Sunday.

On Saturday, I woke up and went out to a town in the campo, rural area, to spend some time with CEDEPAS co-workers and prepare a Pachamanca, which in Quechua means, "Mother Earth." Right when I got there, my buds put me to work grinding up corn kernels for what people call, Humitas. Meanwhile, my friends were working frantically to prepare the other ingredients for the climactic placing of the ingredients in the natural earth oven. Alejandro was mashing up a red pepper for the salsa. Lucio and Evelin were preparing the rocks surrounding fire, which would later play a significant role in the cooking of the food. One interesting moment was when I asked what types of meat were going to be included in the meal. Right as I asked, 3 cuyes, guinea pigs, were being sacrificed in front of my eyes. They actually didn't squeal at all, because the asesina had plenty of experience at killing them quickly. Since we were on a farm, a goat and a chicken had also been sacrificed for this event.

Eventually, we transfered all the meat, potatoes, and ground up corn (which we placed in corn husks) to the oven/fire, which had been buring since 5 AM. The oven looked like this: stacked up like an igloo over the fire were VERY HOT rocks. Beneath the rocks was a hole about 4 feet deep, surfaced with blazing hot embers. We carefully deconstructed the "igloo" with broken stucco roof pieces, thick sticks, or shovels. Once that task was complete, we added the potatoes as a bottom layer, then placed large leaves over the top of them. The next step, from what I remember, was to add some rocks (from which serious heat was radiating), and then the meat. While the two or three people were adding the pieces, almost everyone else was shouting out directions: "NO!!! Put it there, by that rock!" "A little more to the right." After this, we added the corn-based humitas, whose placement correct placement wasn't as vital. We then placed leaves and plastic sheets over everything so that the smoke would not escape. Over these items we efficiently shoveled large amounts of dirt to ensure that oven would be well-insulated. Then, we waited an hour and took all of the items out for a FEAST.

What ensued was a time of fellowship/communion. We laughed, played games until dusk, and celebrated the simplicity of the situation. My friend Onesimo said, "this is what I love about Peru: one can have a great time even in a place with no technology. It doesn't matter where you are, but who you're with." I believed that in the US, but I believe it even more in Peru.

CortaMontes

2009-03-16T07:45:00.000-07:00

Last night would have been a good time to have a camera handy. Unfortunately I lost my camera in October during a YAV retreat in Huanuco, but have still been able to have much of my experience documented, because every other YAV has a camera and here in Huancayo I have access to CEDEPAS' camera most of the time. However, last night was one of those spontaneous flashes for which I couldn't anticipate needing a camera.

Carnaval is a pretty big deal down here. I actually thought it was over for the year, but I was proven wrong when last night I attended a huge block party. Included were traditional garb, dances from Jauja, and the dissonance of several bands playing over one another. Oh, and of course, trees that were brought in and planted in the middle of the street, only to be cut down throughout the night. All of this is called "Cortamontes," which awkwardly translates to "Cutting down the Mountain" festival. I asked why it wasn't called, "Corta-arboles," since arboles are trees, and they are what were being cut down. But I was told that "Cortamontes" has a better ring to it.

So right when I got there the hosts were in the middle of chopping down a tree in the middle of the dirt road. There was a spirit of bonhomie as the majority of the dressed-up folk pranced around the tree with smiles and drinks in hand, while one or two people struck the tree with a gigantic axe. Up in the tree branches are balloons filled with treats, so kids wait eagerly for the tree with tumble, while the adults watch on and occasionally make comments about the quality of chopping, or that there's a random gringo who came to watch the celebration. Classic. Once the tree finally falls, all the kids rush to recover any balloon they can find. Occasionally an adult gets in the mix, but that's bad form. Meanwhile, the band, who has been playing traditional "huayno" music, plays a more dramatic song than their previous one. The dogs that were just a second ago walking around the vacant space, sniffing for any remnant of food, scatter out of fear. Kids retreat with gigantic smiles and wait for the next tree to be cut down, just like the last one, down the corridor of happiness. This goes on until about 1 AM.

If only I had a camera to document this all. It made me ask myself, "how the heck did I get here?" and, "how do I describe this to anyone else?" Even though I was literally being stared at by about half the people there, I felt like I belonged. Actually, some brave kids came over to the circle I was standing in and engaged me in conversation. Others came in a large group and stood studying my every move until they decided I wasn't all that different than anyone else there. One girl even asked me, "what is your name?," to which I was more impressed that I understood what she said than focused on giving a response.

Nice little Sunday evening.

A little update

2009-03-13T16:15:00.000-07:00

First of all, I'm going to BRAZIL in a few days. If that's a surprise to you, it was to me as well. Less than a week ago my site coordinator, Debbie, told Alex, another YAV, and I that there was one spot available to attend a conference sponsored by an organization called AIRPRAL for Youth Leaders in the "Andean" region. Knowing that it would be quite a bummer for one of us not to be able to go, and that it would generally be safer traveling with another person, Debbie asked if another gringo could tag along. After a couple days of waiting to hear back, the answer was YES! Woo hoo!

So Alex and I went through the relatively stressful, but quick, process of obtaining VISAS and notifying our site supervisors and host families that we'll be gone AGAIN in just a few days. The conference will include young folks from all over South America, and luckily will be held in Spanish, not Portuguese. Since I don't have a camera, I'll depend on Alex to take some good shots. Oh, I actually forgot to mention the name of the town we'll be in: Iguazo Falls!!!

Apart from that exciting piece of news, I'm still trying to find ways to insert myself into the work of CEDEPAS. Most of the time, when I have an "assignment," I simply follow people to the places where they're working, listen to whatever workshop is going on, and help with smaller tasks, like signing people in, or setting up the projector. It's difficult to find the balance between stepping in and taking too much control, and simply idling through the year without doing much of anything. I've tried to be patient, getting to know the Andean context, which has suffered so much and holds on to rich traditions. Now, at least, I feel like I know enough to step in and not be too culturally-insensitive. So, what that means is, I'm spending less time on the computer and more time going around asking all of the department coordinators in what ways I can contribute. Today, I spend time preparing work modules for students of the, "Formation of Peacemaking Counselors" Program run by my specific department. Tomorrow I'm going to sit down with a couple more people and see where they can put me to work. I've realized that even though I'm a pretty "go with the flow" guy, I won't make it through the rest of my time here if I'm doing little to nothing.

And as I always tell people, the relationship I have with my host family is great. Same with the interactions I have with the youth at the Emanuel church that I attend and share a reflection with every Saturday night. I just need to find the balance of accepting my current reality and "conviviencia," hanging out, vs. the North American concept of productivity = success. It'll be interesting how it turns out.

Hope you're doing well! Also, hope spring you can enjoy the spring when it comes! I'm sure missing the seasons, and will especially miss spring this year!

Take care,
Sean

2009-02-02T08:51:00.000-08:00

So, it looks like the video of the CEDEPAS facility didn't upload. I guess I can understand, because it was a huge file.

Anyway, I just got back from an Environmental conference with folks from Bolivia, Peru, and the US participating. Overall it was a solid time, as we got to learn about new issues concerning the environment, got to meet some young adults, and generally kept busy (which is always a plus, especially when tasks aren't always well-defined most of the time).

As for my work for this second half of my stay in Peru, it looks like I'll be teaching a lot of English classes. Half of the time I'll be teaching CEDEPAS workers, since some of them will be traveling to international conferences where English is spoken. The other half of the time I'll be working with young adults from different Protestant churches, hopefully infusing some of CEDEPAS' values and talking about things that are relevant to their lives. We'll see what happens.

Finally, it looks like I'll be starting to go to some nearby communities to work with local campesinos. Basically, the work will involve teaching sustainable, environmentally-friendly techniques to growing crops like corn and potatoes. However, since it can be more expensive to do this, we also help them with marketing and selling of the crops. Additionally, I think I'll be working with locals to help them to get involved in their government so that they can make the changes they see necessary in their communities.

If I find out about any other new tasks, I'll write them here.

Chao!
Sean

CEDEPAS Facility and the Broken Wrist Band

2009-01-23T14:49:00.000-08:00

Since I don't think I've taken a video of where I'm living and working, I figured it may be a little overdue after 5 months. Anyway, better late than never.

In other news, about a month ago I broke the wrist band to my watch while hiking with some folks. We went through a wooded area and a branch got ahold of the band, causing the watch to fall. Efforts to repair the watch were in vain.

I think I can honestly say that this happening has been one of the biggest blessings in this year, because before the fateful afternoon, I was literally looking at the time and date on my watch every 5 minutes, thinking to myself, "only 6 more months of this." I sometimes just stood there and counted the seconds, which is not always the best idea when there isn't a whole lot to do.

Now, I feel much more relaxed with the time. In fact, I just "go with the flow." If someone needs the time, they can find a new man to ask. If you need the date, better look at your calendar, not Sean. Perhaps it's the classic "gringo in Latin America" story of finally taking a breath of fresh air and saying, "I'm here and I've accepted it."

...and that's not easy to say when simple luxuries such as walking the streets at night safely or the ability to transport yourself where you need to get, or to simply be understood at any given moment, are non-existant.

2008-12-11T07:32:00.001-08:00

I feel like I should put something up, since there's been such a large gap in communication through this blog.

Maybe the reason I haven't posted anything is because recently, there haven't been too many "major, life-changing" moments in the past month or so, at least in the tangible sense. The biggest "change" that I've experienced is (more of) a sense of peace with my life here in Huancayo. I no longer look at my watch and daydream about life in a city next year, or even long for bike rides on well-maintained bike paths with drivers who respect bicyclists. Really, I just have to remind myself frequently that I'm here precisely to get away from those things -- to experience a different reality.

This year isn't like a study abroad experience. I should have dropped that idea when I applied to be a YAV.

During my study abroad semester in Cholula, Mexico, if I wanted to, I could walk around late at night on my own in relative safety. The university I attended was gated and even more equipped with modern technology than many universities in the States. There were gringo's around to retreat to when I needed to talk to someone who understood my context. If I wanted to, I could simply ignore the poverty (except for the days that I volunteered at an orphanage), and continue living in luxury.

Here in Huancayo, my residence is not a high-class dormitory, but a house that until my arrival didn't have a shower with hot water. My host family recently installed one because the program requires that I have hot water. The poverty that surrounds where I'm living and working is a reality for the vast majority of Peruvians, or Latin Americans in general. And even though these have easily been 3 of the most challenging months of my life, I still recognize my privilege and ability to escape this poverty.

This isn't me complaining or bragging about how extreme I am for living here. It's just me saying that if study abroad only halfway opened my eyes to the "real" Latin America, this year has the opportunity to open my eyes completely. I feel like God has worked through my to instill a sense of peace with my new lifestyle. From this point, I hope that I, with God's help, can seek even more ways to integrate myself into the community, instead of separating myself by fleeting to the allure of privilege.

The Car Ride from Huancayo to Chanchamayo

2008-11-17T06:55:00.000-08:00

I just want to share some pictures from my latest trip from the highlands to the jungle.

First, we left Huancayo and saw all kinds of colorful, patch-work fields.
We continued on the winding roads, seeing gravel colored mountains and cloudy skies.

Later, as we descended, we encountered deep, greener mountains.

And then, after only 3 hours, we arrived in the sultry San Ramon, a place with a completely different eco-system, culture, and cuisine.
.

Here's a video of the place we stayed.

Huanuco and Villa Rica

2008-10-27T07:50:00.001-07:00

I've spent the majority of the past week and a half traveling to really cool areas of Peru.

The YAV's all reunited in Huanuco, where Lynn is living, from the 18th-21st. Our lodging was at a beautiful place called "La Granja," where the sun shined constantly and the adjoining mountains and fields created a setting where one couldn't help but relax and marvel at how beautiful the landscape was. At this retreat, I felt at peace with life here in Peru, which I have been struggling to accept since the beginning of my time here.

I ended up missing my bus back to Huancayo on Monday, so I ended up hanging out with Lynn and her host family all day on Tuesday (the bus leaves at 9:30 PM, with the idea that one can sleep through the night). With a tour guide, Juan, we went to ruins that people here call "Kotosh," which is the general name for a variety of ancient societies. Since I've seen my fair share of ruins in Latin America, at first glance there was little difference between these ruins, and say, ruins in Mexico. However, with a knowledgeable tour guide at our side, several secrets of the Kotosh were revealed. For example, we learned about how, before entering the temple, people would lay their foreheads on a rock so that they could release negative energy which would inhibit them from fully worshiping their god(s). Lynn and I, one at a time, laid our foreheads on the stone (which probably looked really goofy because we had to lean over really far), and shared a practice with people from many years ago.

Once I got back into Huancayo, I made a sharp turnaround to leave for Villa Rica. Located in the "Seca de selva," the dry jungle, this place was a treat. The air was humid. People wore shorts. I heard sounds and saw birds that I've never seen before. Overall, the feel was entirely different than life in the mountains. CEDEPAS held workshops with an attorney which were aimed at a church group and a group of school teachers. Mostly, I just sat around and listened, occasionally helping when called upon. It was hard for me to accept that CEDEPAS had asked me to join them just to sit around and observe. What was the point of me coming, I thought. This simply "being" piece of the program is still an adjustment, and I don't even consider myself a "busy bee."

Now that I'm back in Huancayo, Juan and I are going to start working on a small-scale neighborhood clean-up, training on how to properly dispose of garbage (not so easy here, since there isn't infraestructure here like there is in the US), and how to plant and maintain a garden. As a side note, we'll be doing this in a neighborhood of people who have been displaced due to the internal violence of the 80's and 90's. It should be a good opportunity to get to know some new people, hear stories (if they are willing to share), and hopefully empower people to make a tangible change.

Hope you're doing well!

Random Comical Notes: I've noticed that many Peruvians, or at least Huancayan's, are really knowledgeable of exactly what body part or organ a certain food or beverage helps. Us gringos know that carrots are good for your eyes, but Huancayans can tell you that "hierba de boldo" is good for your kidneys, or that "such and such" a food is good for your liver. I guess it just goes to show how dependent North Americans are on our pills, while folks from here often times are more interested in natural remedies.

Estimating, I think I've heard a certain Cumbia song called "Payaso" at least 550 times since I've been here. This week I've going to try to count exactly how many times I hear it on the streets.

Parque de la Identidad

2008-10-06T16:24:00.000-07:00

Hello all,

There isn't a whole lot to report these days. CEDEPAS recently held an event featuring a theologian from the US about "the Apocalypse." One interesting thing about the conference is that it was labeled as liberal (oh, these silly labels) because the focus of the entire conference is that Revelations is a book that is meant to bring hope to its listeners in the midst of an oppressive Roman empire, not give speculators a platform on which to guess the what the "end times" will entail. Perhaps that message isn't as exciting as the Dispensational one, but given the context of the writings, it makes a whole lot more sense. Why are people let down (or consider it heresy) when the message shifts from chaos to peace?

Anyway, that event is over. Another task has come my way: I get to be a youth group leader for the church I'm attending. On Saturday I introduced myself and explained why they were in the same room as a gigantic gringo. While I'm a little nervous about coming up with activities that the kids will like, I'm excited to be in this leadership role. I'm hoping that silliness is universal. If that's the case, we'll have a pretty good time together.

Yesterday I went to the "Parque de la Identidad," which includes beautiful vegetation, statues of famous Andean musicians and actors, and, of course, Huaylas music (which is indigenous to the land). Not to mention being right up next to a huge mountain. It was a pretty fun time.

Not a whole lot else to say. I've been watching a lot of soccer, getting to know my host family even better, and looking forward to reuniting with the other volunteers in Huanuco and Tingo Maria (a town in the jungle). I'll keep you all updated

Office view

2008-09-29T14:21:00.001-07:00

This is the view from my office. Notice stunning mountains coupled with poverty. It seems like that happens a lot.

CEDEPAS Tasks

2008-09-24T08:06:00.001-07:00

Hello everyone,

I'm feeling a lot better now. Breathing still isn't as easy as it is in Illinois, but it isn't preventing me from exploring the town a bit. Once I buy some batteries, I'll put up pictures.

I thought I'd fill you all in on some of the job tasks I will be fulfilling here at CEDEPAS, now that they have been clarified.

To begin, I'm going to be working in the "Promocion Humana" department, which doesn't translate very easily into English. I'd translate it to Social Development, but that still doesn't sound natural.

Anyway, I'll be working with a few different projects.

One is called, "Tayta Diosmi Michimani," which in Quechua means, "God is my Pastor." This multi-faceted program seeks to create peaceful communities in towns surrounding Huancayo, since the internal violence in Peru left long-lasting effects, including psychological and spiritual damage, domestic violence, and other consequences. The idea of this project is to faciliate workshops that encourage a peaceful society, giving the participants tools to work through conflicts in a healthy manner. Also within the aim of the project is to equip partipants with therapeutic practices and to promote church involvement in this movement of social recovery.

Another project is called Hualash Huamla, which in Quechua means, "Man and Woman." It appears that I'll be traveling a couple of Saturday's a month to surrounding communities to work with Youth in various churches, to help train them to be leaders in their community. This work is consistent with the belief of CEDEPAS that youth are to be valued and encouraged to participate in the issues that directly and indirectly affect them in their towns. Also, one area of the work is directly specifically toward women, to empower them in seemingly perpetual "machista" societies. Yet another initiative is directled toward environmental justice. My friend and co-worker Juan has encouraged me to organize a small-scale environmental campaign in Huancayo which would consist of me and others hosting workshops that will teach locals about recycling, inorganic vs. organic trash, and where to properly dispose of garbage. It may sound simple, but this could be a big step in promoting a cleaner, healtier Huancayo.

That's all for now. Take care!

Attack of Soroche

2008-09-17T16:31:00.000-07:00

Life in Huancayo, as I expected, is much slower than Lima. The threat of being hit by cars when crossing the street has diminished significantly, the Spanish is generally relaxed and not slurred, and the surrounding mountains set a scene of serenity.

Unfortunately, I haven't really been able to enjoy the advantages of this small city yet because I've been suffering from "Soroche," or altitude sickness. Since Huancayo is situated at an altitude of 10,500 feet, oxygen levels are way lower, meaning that difficulty breathing, nausea, upset stomach, difficulty sleeping, and a heightened heart rate are all common symptoms for those who are not acclimated. After three days here and an incomprehensible amount of "mate de coca," I'm just now starting to feel better. Fortunately, an incredible gracious support system including my host family, the CEDEPAS (the non-profit I'm working at), and the brother of a co-worker (who happens to be a doctor) has helped me to survive this rough time. These new friends are truly incorporating the values of hospitality, grace, and acceptance in ways that I'm just now starting to comprehend.

Small examples include: My host sister going out of her way to accompany a nearly delirious gringo to the office; a co-worker Juan accompanying me to a doctor the first day he met me, and then lending me money to pay for the drugs that I need at a pharmacy; and a doctor coming to the CEDEPAS office on his own time to clean an infected wound, treat my altitude sickness, and give me advice on how to stay healthy, all free of charge.

Once I get to feeling better I'll put some more updates. Please don't be worried -- soroche occurs with most people who come up to this altitude. And the wound is getting better, too.
Just thought I'd keep you all up-to-date on the happenings here.

Peace,
Sean

2008-09-07T18:38:00.000-07:00

Greetings from Lima,

I write from my room in host family's house, beginning to realize the luxury of having wireless internet.

First of all, I want to say that speaking another language all day can really wear you out. Coming into the year having studied Spanish in college, spent in Puebla, Mexico, and working on the border, I thought it would be no problem transitioning from English to Spanish. As I lay here on my bed, exhausted, I realize that I was wrong. Fortunately, during this orientation we've had plenty of time to take some space from the language when we relax at Harry and Debbie's house. Today, while the others went to the upper-class neighborhood called Miraflores, it was wonderful to hang out with Harry and just relax, since I injured my shin yesterday playing soccer.

Earlier today, we all went to a church service at the Iglesia Evangelica de Peru in the Mirones Bajo neighborhood of Lima. The building was simple, with small pews and about 30 attendees. The music was played on a keyboard (which included the percussion), various tambourine players spread throughout the congregation, and several singers. While the music bordered the contemporary Christian variety, there was certainly an aura of Latin flavor. We were all graciously accepted into the congregation and asked to share snippets of where we'll be living and working. They proceeded to bless our year. Overall, the church was more open that I expected an "evangelical" church in Peru to be. I had heard that many were not as open, which makes me believe that perhaps this church is an aberration.

After spending a week in Lima, I'm getting more and more excited about leaving for the sierra. Offering a slower pace of life, fewer familiar stores and sunshine, Huancayo should be quite agreeable (especially if the bus ride through the mountains doesn't make me sick).

I hope you all are doing well!
Thanks for reading,
Sean

First few days in Peru

2008-09-04T21:35:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Lima after a long day of travel. Combating our excitement to meet our host families, and see Debbie, our site coordinator, were the customs line and baggage claim. After waiting for what seemed like forever, our experience as YAV's initiated.

My hosts for my time in Lima are Juan, Eunice, and their two children. Per usual, their hospitality is first rate. The food has been spectacular. Dishes have included fried chicken, ceviche, a sea food dish with onions and seaweed, and causa rellena (a potato filled with chicken or other ingredients).

We've been spending our days at a network of non-profits called Joining Hands against Hunger. It's been fun to get to know the variety of work within the office and the people who are running the show. Definitely look forward to being a part of that team.

On the way back from the first day of orientation I got lost. Not only that, we had spent all day talking about the dangers of the city and specifically not to walk around at night. Night fell while I walked, and I proceeded to freak out, while at the same time trying to play it off. You all know how that looks: I was a fidgiting, tall gringo. Fortunately I made it home, and collapsed onto my bed in triumph and fatigue.

More to come. It's late and I need some rest.
Hope you all are doing well.
Sean